Since Lynch has come aboard he’s been gradually working more of his own style across the menu, and much of this is in synch with where things left off during the high point of Meson 923.

Two good examples from the appetizer list are scallops ($16), with candied pumpkin seed brittle and vinaigrette imbued with foie gras, and the hamachi crudo ($16), a raw fish preparation lavishly dressed with beets, fried shallots and pistachio.

That brunch is something to behold, as much for the scene under Atchafalaya’s roof as for anything that happens on the plate. It’s an exposition of poached eggs, crabmeat and hollandaise orchestrated for surging crowds, abetted by a self-serve bloody Mary bar and urged on by jazz and blues combos squeezed into the corner by the bar.